Foursquare aged in Madeira is back, and maybe better than ever. We look forward to every release from this cult favorite Barbados Rummery, but the rums aged in ex-Madeira casks especially get our heart racing. We are hardly alone in this either - the general ranking of favorites amongst connoisseurs of the distillery always end up with the Madeira editions floating to the top. This is the 28th release in the Exceptional Cask Series, and the fourth to use Madeira casks in the aging process, after 2017's Criterion, 2019's Sagacity, and 2021's Redoutable. Master blender Richard Seale employs a unique aging regimen that sets Foursquare apart from most distilleries - instead of "cask finishes", he ages entirely in one cask, in this case a portion entirely in ex-bourbon and another entirely in ex-madeira, and then blends after they have fully aged. That means instead of a kiss of lush, tropical fruit laden Madeira casks over top of long term ex-bourbon aging, we get two 14 year old rums that are blended to taste, so that each element can be perfectly balanced. Convocation is certainly balanced, but that doesn't mean it isn't surprising and exciting. The nose brings rich aromas of caramelized vanilla, toasted coconut, and ripe berries greet the senses. Notes of aged tobacco, bergamot, and subtle nuttiness emerge, complemented by hints of oxidized Madeira wine. The palate follows with flavors of caramelized grapefruit peel, roasted macadamia nuts, and blackberry cobbler. Underlying notes of pineapple and salted caramel add depth. The mouthfeel is rich and chewy, reminiscent of toffee. The finish is slow and elegant, with spice, dark chocolate, and dried tropical fruits lingering on, showing how well balanced cask strength spirits (in this case 62% abv) can be big and enveloping without any harshness. While lovers of complex and rich spirits will surely find themselves slowing down to savor each moment of the sip, it is also dangerously easy to zip through it for lack of "proofiness". May the convocation commence!
